Tim Atkin MW – Grape variety of the year: Chenin Blanc


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Tim Atkin MW with Charles Metcalfe

Tim demonstrates again why he is one of the UK's most respected wine writers:

'Still ludicrously undervalued, Chenin Blanc is responsible for some of the best white wines on the market, especially from South Africa and its native Loire Valley.

2007 Taste the Difference Chenin Blanc, Western Cape (£6.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's). Tropical fruity Chenin from Ken Forrester, with a touch of oak for added complexity.

2005 Savennières L'Enclos, Eric Morgat (£13.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com). Concentrated, barrel-fermented Loire Chenin with honey, apple and vanilla notes.'

A treat in store: The Observer magazine 7th December 2008

Antique sparkler and Edmond 2006


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Dinner last night featured Jacky Blot’s La Taille aux Loups Pétillant naturel non dosé, Montlouis. When this rather inelegant and prosaic name was changed to Triple Zero sales soared. This Pétillant naturel non dosé must have been bought some five or so years ago and certainly has aged well – attractive biscuity and honeyed character.



We followed the pétillant with the fine and rich 2006 Cuvée Edmond drunk with a spicy Indian-Thai fusion dish. For some barrel fermented Sancerre remains controversial. 2006 Edmond is evidence that this approach to Sauvignon Blanc works well. Certainly there is none of the gooseberry or even grassy, vegetal character that many people consider is typical of Loire Sauvignon Blanc. The Mellots’ Sauvignon Blanc is picked far too ripe to have any vegetal character. 2006 Cuvée Edmond is certainly enjoyable to drink now but, equally, can be kept for at least five to seven years.




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