Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Quelques nouvelles de nos vendanges
'Elles sont terminées chez nous depuis mercredi dernier, le 15/10.

Nous sommes très satisfaits de ce millésime 2008 du point de vue de la qualité. Nous avons rentré nos sauvignons avec des degrés entre 12 et 14 et des acidités de 5,5 à 6,4. Le rendement moyen est de 52 hl/ha en sauvignon. Pour les pinot noir, les degrés vont de 12,5 à 13,5 et les acidités de 5 à 5,5. Le rendement moyen en pinot noir est de 35 hl/ha cette année.

En ce qui concerne notre conversion en agriculture biologique et en biodynamie, nous avons conduit 18 ha pour la campagne 2008 et cette année nous conduisons nos 55 ha de vigne en biodynamie. C'est un challenge passionnant et une autre approche de la viticulture.

PS : Je n'ai pas de photos de Michaël Ott en vendanges, dommage!

Benoît Fouassier (Domaine Fouassier, Sancerre): Some news of our 2008 harvest:
‘We finished the harvest last Wedndesday (15th October)

‘We are very satisfied with the quality of 2008. The Sauvignons came in between 12%-14% potential with acidities between 5.5 and 6.4 gms. The average yield for the Sauvignon was 52 hl/ha. With the Pinot Noir the degrees were between 12.5%-13.5% with acidities between 5 to 5.5 and an average yield of 35 hl/ha.

‘As far as our conversion to organic and biodynamic viticulture, we have converted 18 ha this year and we are now starting to convert the rest of our 55 ha. It is a passionate challenge for us and a different approach to viticulture.

‘Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of Michaël Ott (UK agent) harvesting. A pity!

Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois, Sancerre etc
A cautious assessment of the quality of 2008:
“Absolutely fantastic! We have been greatly surprised. However, the vintage is 20% of normal in quantity.

Jêrome Choblet, Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
“We finished the Muscadet on 29th September and harvested the Chardonnay on 29th and 30th. Because of the tiny harvest it only took us six days this year. We have had 18 hl/ha – we had thought to make 20-25 hl/ha but because of the lack of juice in the grapes the actual yield was lower. This is even worse than 1991 (overall the worst frost experienced in the Loire and western France in recent times). In 1991 we made 19.5 hl/ha. The average yield here in Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu is only 15 hl/ha. The overall average yield for Muscadet (Sèvre-et-Maine etc.) is 22 hl/ha.

“Although we were very stressed by our decision to wait for our grapes to ripen properly and to stop picking for a week after we found that our first grapes harvested on Monday 15th September were not properly ripe and with high acidity levels, the decision was absolutely right. We are very happy with the quality of 2008. Waiting that week extra gave us 2% more potential alcohol and reduced acidity, which had been at 8 gms but came down to between 5.6 and 6 gms. There is a lot of tartaric acidity and a lot is dropping out during fermentation.

“Because of the severe shortage of 2008 I can confirm that of all our large customers around the world Waitrose (UK supermarket) is the only client to whom we have guaranteed to supply. We have worked together for a long time and we have a long-term partnership – they will have UK exclusivity.”

Melon de Bourgogne 2008

Due to the severe frost in early April the volume of the 2008 vintage is well below normal. Overall the estimate is that the frost destroyed 50% of the crop. However, this varies from sector to sector. “We lost between 20%-70% of the crop depending on the parcel,” said Monique Luneau of Domaine Luneau-Papin, Le Landreau in the Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine. “Overall we will make 40% of normal,” added Pierre. Pierre says that Joseph Landron has only made 12 hl/ha. Across in the Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Jérome Choblet of Domaine des Herbauges says: “Before we started picking we had hoped for 25 hl/ha but now we have started we will be lucky to get 20 hl/ha. With around 130 ha – 105 of Melon – Herbauges is the largest producer in the Grandlieu appellation.

One of Pierre Luneau's pickers with grapes destined for Cuvée Excelsior

Fortunately the weather is good here: sunny but not very hot – the maximum temperature yesterday was just over 20˚C and the nights are decidedly fresh. Here and elsewhere in the Loire it seems a lot drier than during August – the grass is less green and the ground in the vineyards is dry and dusty.

“We started picking yesterday,” says Jérôme. “We checked the grapes on Monday a week ago (15 September) but they weren’t properly ripe ¬ only 9˚ alc but 8.2 acidity. Now we have 10.5˚-11˚ depending upon the parcel and 5.7 acidity. Waiting a week was very stressful as most of the producers around here were picking. 80% of all Muscadet has now been picked.” Assuming that their neighbours’ grapes were similarly barely ripe, it will be a good year for the bettravistes – sugar beet farmers of northern France. However, the high levels of acidity will be a problem.

Jérome Choblet with 2008 Muscadet juice

At Luneau-Papin they are finishing the hand picking – yesterday was the last day – and the rest of the grapes will be picked by machine. Pierre Luneau was very relaxed yesterday – his main concern appears to be trying to get his new mobile phone to work properly.

"Hello! Hello!" Pierre Luneau struggling with his mobile

Someone has to work: Pierre-Marie Luneau checks the harvest

Pierre Luneau admiring grapes destined for Excelsior

Monique Luneau: la vendangeuse en chef

One of the givens of the harvest is that machines will break down – usually at the most inconvenient time. While we talked to Jérôme, his father Luc was busy repairing the picking machine, so that it would be ready to go next morning.

Luc Choblet: "I think it goes this way..............."

"That's better – cracked it!"

(25 September 2008)

Unfortunately the sky is grey this morning and it’s raining – a complete contrast to yesterday.

11 September was the official ban des vendanges in Muscadet. This is when the wine authorities fire the starting pistol for the harvest, although if your grapes are sufficient ripe it is possible to get a dispensation to allow you to start before.

Pierre-Luneau of Domaine Luneau Papin (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine): “We started on Tuesday (16 September) with the section of the vineyard that is harvested manually with a team of 50 pickers (very carefully selected by Pierre). Although the summer has been bien moyenne, there is too much of a rush to pick and we aren’t picking today – due to restart Monday. I expects that the harvest will last another 10 days or so.

Pierre Luneau at the Salon des Vins de Loire 2006

Jérôme Choblet, Domaine des Herbauges, Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu: “We haven't started yet. We did a little trial last Monday (15th) but the grapes are properly ripe yet – around 10.5% pot alc but between 6-7 g/l acidity. We are waiting for the grapes to be phonologically ripe and will start next Monday. Waiting is very stressful for us as many of our neighbours are busy picking. However, our grapes are healthy and we know we will make better wine if we wait. Once we start we will be picking quickly and I expect the harvest will be over in 10-15 days."

Catherine Roussel of Clos Roche Blanche, Touraine: “We will be starting Monday (22nd) with a parcel of Sauvignon Blanc. We’ll see how it goes. We are happy with the alcohol degrees but the acidities last weekend were still quite high – 6-7 gram per litre. If they are still high we’ll stop and wait.”

Jean-Marie Bourgeois, Henri Bourgeois: “We expect to start around 29 September in Sancerre. We are not in a rush. The weather is fine and the nights are very cool. It’s a bit like the Marlborough (NZ) climate – the acidity levels don’t drop. With climate change we are more worried by declining acidity rather than whether the grapes we will be able to get the grapes properly ripe. The grapes are very healthy and are ripening gently.”

Ban des Vendanges dates:
Reuilly – Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Monday 22 September
Reuilly – Pinot Noir Wednesday 24 September
Quincy – Friday 26 September

The dates for Sancerre, Menetou-Salon and Pouilly have yet to be fixed, although a reliable source indicates that it may well be Monday 29 September.

I understand that the Sauvignon Blanc is looking promising, although the acidity needs to drop a little. The Pinot Noir, however, is more delicate with a question mark over the amount of colour in the skins. Fortunately the forecast for the Loire over the weekend and for next week is good.

Saumur – Le Puy-Notre-Dame
Two messages from Micaela Frow (www.lagrandemaison.net)

Wednesday 17th: Good sunny conditions for the last week and into next so fingers crossed. Some due to start harvesting for the Crémant next week has been a tricky season with rot and coulure. A couple of weeks ago we had very misty mornings cleared by sun in the afternoon but way too early for Coteaux du Layon type weather very odd!
Friday 19th: Hand harvest started today around Le Puy area for the Crémant.

Christophe Daviau

Anjou – Brissac
Christophe Daviau, Domaine de Bablut: “I’m planning to start the Chardonnay for the Crémant on Tuesday (23rd) and then a parcel of Grolleau for Topette (Christophe’s easy drinking screwcapped red using macération carbonique). Both will be picked by hand. The Sauvignon, which is about 11.5% potential now, will either be Friday or the beginning of the following week. The Cabernet and the Chenin are coming along, although they are about a degree lower in potential alcohol than they were at this stage last year."