Une Ile

Despite a population of around 283,000 in greater Angers, the town is short of really good restaurants, so it is probably rather daft trying to stack up Une Ile against Le Petit Comptoir. Both are small restaurants – Le Petit Comptoir has space for just 24/26 people and a few more in Une Ile. Certainly as two of the best restaurants in Angers, if not the best, both should have little problem filling their tables.

Une Ile is a new venture by Catherine and Gérard Bossé, who owned and ran les Tonnelles on the island of Behuard just off Savennières until they closed around Christmas 2008 ready for the move to Angers. Une Ile opened on 21st January. Its decor has Japanese influences. The menu du midi (lunch) is 28€ for an amuse bouche, le plat du moment and cheese. Otherwise the menus are at 48€ (three courses), 58€ (four courses), 80€ menu dégustation, 105€ Les Gourmandises (glass of wine with each course) and 150 menu tout truffe. During the Salon des Vins de Loire I had the good fortune to eat here twice. The cooking is extremely good – the fish outstanding. There is a very good selection of Loire wines with a strong nod towards 'natural' wines. It is, however, in these days of the weak pound, expensive.

The cooking at Le Petit Comptoir run by Laetitia et Stéphane Cosnier is of same standard as Une Ile. I have only ever eaten there on the eve of the Salon des Vins de Loire when they do a single menu at 45€ for four courses. This year I ate here with Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor who is now busiy writing up his reports on the Salon), Neil Irvine (HG Wines) and Tom King from the RSJ Restaurant and we had a very good meal – briefly covered here. The restaurant is on two levels – upstairs is more comfortable. During the winter downstairs can be quite cold, especially when the street door is opened. I fancy that the wine list doesn't change very often and, although there are good things on it, it wouldn't hurt to be changed more often. However, as the restaurant is small this may be difficult.

The day before we had eaten at Le Relais, which continues to be good – both cooking and for rapport qualité prix – as well as an interesting wine selection.

While in Angers I was given two restaurant recommendations, which I haven't had time to try but pass them on anyway:

Chez Rémi on Boulevard du Marechal Foch just along from the Hotel d'Anjou and roughly across the room from the Marine Hotel. I made a point of going past here on my way back from Une Ile on the Monday of the Salon. Although it was around 11.30pm Chez Rémi was packed with its clientele singing Burgundian drinking songs. I noticed someone came out from the restaurant to pick up a bottle from their car, so I guess there must have been a fair number of vignerons inside. There is a menu at 26€, which included boudin noir fait maison and rognons de veau.

I did recommend Chez Remi to a good friend and so hoped to get a report from him but unfortunately he spurned the suggestion, even though it was just across from his hotel, and instead went for a Chinese meal, which turned out to be vile. I have no sympathy – John! Next time I'm in Angers I'll make a point of going there.

Côté Louet in Murs Erigné on the south side of the Loire is the other recommendation. It is run by Nadège Loiseau and Etienne Duc, who took over in May 2008 when they took over the old Beau Rivage restaurant and renamed it. As it was Catherine and Vincent Ogereau, who recommended it I'm sure it is good.

I don't know about Côté Louet but for the four restaurants in Angers it is definitely best to book.

Une Ile, 9 rue Max Richard 49000 Angers. Tel: 02.41.19.14.48
Le Petit Comptoir, 40, Rue David d'Angers, 49100 Angers Tel: 02.41.88.81.57
Le Relais, 9 Rue de la Gare, 49100 Angers. Tel: 02.41.88.42.51
Chez-Rémi, 7 Bis, Boulevard du Marechal Foch, 49100 Angers. Tel: 02 41 24 95 44‎
Côté Louet, 22 Rue Maurice Berne. 49610 Mûrs Erigné. Tel: 02.41.57.72.49.

Renaissance tasting: early afternoon when less crowded

Off quite early this morning – crisp blue sky, sunny but cold – to the Renaissance tasting in the Greniers Saint-Jean in the western part of Angers on the other side of the River Maine. Walking across the bridge over the Maine the damage from the recent fire to part of the Château d'Angers was all too apparent. I stupidly thought I would take a photo on the way back as I was keen to get to the tasting as early as possible. Unfortunately I miscalculated as the sun was right in the way on my return, so no pic.

The Renaissance tasting is becoming increasingly popular and rapidly develops into a bun-fight – une guerre des brioches in French perhaps? Today was no exception: at 10am it was fine but by 10.45 it was impossible to get in to taste with some of the most popular producers.

I guess I spent about four hours there and managed to taste around 70% of the Loire wines in the tasting – the Renaissance event includes producers from all over France but obviously the Angers event attracts a sizeable Loire contingent.

I tasted too many wines in not ideal conditions to post detailed notes. Rather I'm going to pick out a selection that particularly grabbed my attention and list them. It should be remembered that quite a number of them are unfinished wines, which are likely to change considerably by the time they are bottled.

Some wines that stood out:

2007 Carabas, AC Touraine François Plouzeau
Blend of Chenin/Sauvignon

2007 Le Herdelean, Michel Augé, Domaine des Maisons Brulées
Blend of Gamay/Pinot Noir

2008 Le P'tit Blanc, Joël Menard
100% Chenin

2007 Clos de la Bergerie, Virginie Joly, la Roche aux Moines
La Coulée de Serrant 100% Chenin

2007 La Lune Mark Angeli
2007 Les Fourchardes Mark Angeli
100% Chenin 'Appellation Vin de Table'

2008 Charrette Charlotte Battais and Mickael Demonsais
2008 Argolide Marta Irico
Two interesting small new ventures based in Anjou producing their first wines in 2008. Charlotte and Mickael with just 0.5ha of Chenin and Marta with 2ha – 1.20 Chenin and 0.86 Gamay.

2007 Le Noëls de Monbenault, Anjou Blanc, Richard Leroy
100% Chenin

2007 Azay-le-Rideau, Luc-Jean Sylvos, Château de la Roche
100% Chenin – vibrant and mineral.

2008 Hermine d'Or (black label), Domaine de la Louvertrie, Joseph Landron
From vines between 20-70 years old on sandy soils over clay and gneiss. Also
Atmosphere à Landron
Very good sparkling made from 30% Pinot Noir and 70% Folle Blanche (Gros Plant)

2005 Cour Cheverney, Michel Gendrier Domaine des Huards
Austere but honeyed.

2007 Calligramme, Jasnières, Eric Nicolas, Domaine de Bellivière
Great balance and precision, good concentration

2006 Le Volagré, Montlouis Stéphane Cossais

2008 Minérale, Montlouis Frantz Saumon

2007 Argile, Vouvray, François Chidaine

2006 Kharakter, Jasnières, Christian Chaussard and Natalie Gaubicher, Le Briseau
Honey and minerals – tasting better than when I visited Christian at Le Briseau in early August 2008.

2007 La Nef des Fous, Montlouis, Valery Mordelet and Jean-Daniel Kloeckle, Domaine Les Loges de la Folie

2008 Les Quarts de Nuits, Montlouis Sec, Laurent Chatenay

2005 Les Quarts, Coteaux-du-Layon-Faye-d'Anjou
2004 La Passion, Coteaux-du-Layon-Faye-d'Anjou, Eddy Oosterlinck-Bracke, Domaine de Juchepie

2007 Les Picasses, Chinon, Etienne and Pascale Bonnaventure, Château de Coulaine
Impressive texture, weight and length for a 2007.

2007 Les Corbeaux d'Ardenay, Anjou Rouge, Patrick Baudouin
I was critical of Patrick's reds back in the mid to late 1990s – tannic and clumsy. This 2007, full of concentrated black fruits with a considerable structure, has taken two years to ferment but shows that I badly need to retaste Patrick's very considerably improved reds.
Also 2006 L'Effusion, Anjou Blanc.


2009 Top prize for oddities awarded to 2006 Les Ortinières, Jean-François Chene (Beaulieu-sur-Layon). Long time (18 months I think he said) in barrel without topping up gives this wine an awful, stale sherry nose – slightly better on the palate. Why go to the bother of making something so unattractive? The estate is called La Coulée d'Ambrosia, so Jean-François clearly has a well-developed sense of humour.

•••

List to be continued tomorrow (now complete) but just time to mention an excellent dinner this evening@Le Petit Comptoir, 40, Rue David d'Angers 49100 Angers 02.41.88.81.57. Four wonderful courses for 45€ – a special menu for the eve of the Salon des Vins. I think the normal menu is 30€. Great cooking and good value. Wines drunk: 2006 Les Clos des Rouliers, Anjou Blanc, Richard Leroy – initially quite fat but minerality developed in glass giving the wine a fine balance. Richard is definitely a star. Followed by the 2005 Saumur-Champigny, Bruno Dubois – for anyone who thinks that all Loire reds are light and fruit this concentrated little number from Bruno should make them think again.

Looking across the Maine to Angers' Cathredal

14th October 2008

Today I received my invitation to the 2009 Renaissance des AOC tasting to be held on 1st February 2009 at the Greniers Saint-Jean in Angers. This is the first rendez-vous of the annual Salon des Vins de Loire. The Salon, itself, runs from the 2nd-4th February – not here in the centre of Angers but on the northern outskirts at the Parc des Expositions.

Church near Les Greniers Saint Jean

I understand from an impeccable source that it was intended that the 2009 Renaissance tasting would be a two-day affair – Saturday 31st January and Sunday 1st February. Unfortunately the person deputed to book the Grenier Saint-Jean delayed too long, so that by the time they attempted to book the Grenier was already hired for a wedding. So one day this year. I won’t attempt to embarrass the organiser partly because he is one of the Layon’s most amusing producers as well as making fine dry Anjou Blanc and sweet wines too. Not to mention the best Rosé d’Anjou around – although it has to be said there isn’t much competition for this accolade. I won’t attempt to embarrass him because it is most unlikely to read this as he abhors the internet – regarding it as a toxic assemblage of the work of Beelzebub, Anglo-American imperialism and global capitalism. A mistaken view in my opinion but there you go!

The Renaissance tasting is very much a mixed bag. Amongst its members are some very fine producers but equally there are those who make appalling wines that undermine the credibility of this organisation. I suspect one of the main reasons is the almost messianic belief that any use of sulphur is evil. That producers, like the late Didier Dagueneau and the distinguished Mark Angeli, have felt it necessary to move away from a complete rejection to a very limited use of sulphur indicates that it is sensible to protect the integrity of your wine with a minimal dose. In September 2007 Didier referred wryly to his no sulphur days as “his peace and love era".

Here is a piece I wrote last February, which first appeared on the RSJ Restaurant website:

Sunday 3rd February 2008: Renaissance des AOC, Angers
On a good, crisp but rather chilly morning Tom and I walked from the Hotel du Mail across the Maine to the Greniers St Jean for the Renaissance tasting. The Greniers St Jean is over the other side of the River Maine that flows through Angers before joining the Loire.

The aim of the group ‘Renaissance des AOC’ is to return to wines that reflect their terroir or sense of place by working organically and eschewing chaptalisation, cultured yeasts, fining etc. The aim is to try to make wine naturally as possible. Nicolas Joly of La Coulée de Serrant is one of the leading people in the group. The tasting is split into those who are fully paid up and those who follow the criteria but who are not part of the group.

Old street near Les Grenier Saint-Jean

Although there were also producers from other parts of France, Tom and Jim concentrated on those from the Loire. As at last year’s edition quality here was extremely variable. We tasted some extremely good wines from producers like Richard Leroy of Rablay-sur-Layon, who makes wonderful dry white Anjou, and Eric Nicolas of Domaine du Bellivière in Jasnières and Coteaux-du-Loir. Eric has long been an RSJ favourite and his wines are on our list. Other good producers included Thierry Michon, also on the list as well as Françoise and François Plouzeau (Domaine de la Garrelière, AC Touraine) near Richelieu, our old favourite Mark Angeli (Anjou and Bonnezeaux) and Catherine and Philippe Delesvaux (Anjou).

Equally there are some real horrors. Completely oxidised wines are a speciality of some of these producers. Unfortunately they see it as a badge of honour that they should not use sulphur dioxide at all not even in the smallest dose to provide some protection for their wines against spoilage. Many of these wines are sold as vin de table because often they cannot get approval to use the relevant appellation because their wines are faulty and are rejected by the authorities. Often this rejection appears to confirm to these growers that they are right and that having to sell your wine as vin de table is seen as a badge of honour.

I tasted Jean-Christophe Garnier’s wines. He comes from St Lambert and I’m sure he works very seriously in his vineyards – low yields, careful selection of fruit etc, so that when his grapes arrive in the winery they are in good condition. Sadly it is probably here that it all goes wrong. Working without sulphur is possible but the winemaker has to be absolutely meticulous about topping up barrels very regularly to make sure that they are full, so that there is no air to oxidise the wines. Generally you have take great care that everything is as clean as possible. Whatever Garnier does in his winery, he ends up with undrinkable oxidised wines.

Old street near Les Grenier Saint-Jean

That evening Tom and Jim were joined by Sarah Ahmed, a wine journalist, for dinner at Le Petit Comptoir (02.41.88.81.57), a small but very good restaurant in near our hotel. Sarah runs the wine detective website (www.thewinedetective.co.uk) and is one of regional judges on the Loire for the Decanter World Wine Awards. Dinner with a fixed price four course menu – entrée, fish, meat and dessert at €41 was very good. We started with an enjoyable bottle of Domaine Richou’s Anjou Blanc Chauvigné 2005. This was followed by another of Richard Leroy’s whites – Le Clos des Rouliers 2006 Anjou Blanc, which was quite rich with a little bit of wood on the nose. Rouliers is the cheaper of Richard’s two cuvées but it confirmed the good impression that we already had of his wines. For the red we moved further east to Saumur-Champigny with Patrick Vadé’s Cuvée Lea 2001, which was also showing very well. 2001 tends to be rather overshadowed by 2003 and 2006 but there were some good wines made in this vintage, which are drinking well now. Le Petit Comptoir is highly recommended but it is tiny, so booking is essential.